3-Watch Thursday #51
Rolex patents, John Lennon, Rolex 1675 and Styling the Cintrée
Good morning team,
What a busy week it’s been since I clicked schedule on #50.
So many stories have dropped since the last time I was in your inbox, plus I thought I’d dedicate this issue to my hopefully improving skills (it is my new job after all) in patents.
Armed with newer searching techniques of public domains, hopefully over the next few weeks I can help bring some interesting developments to light from our favourite watch companies along with some companies we haven’t heard of.
Let’s dive straight in!
What’s New in Rolex Patents?
It’s been a while since my feature on Rescapement writing about the newest Rolex patents ahead of Watches & Wonders predicting what we might see. Since then we’ve seen a lot of change and I realised 2 things:
By the time the patent application reaches publication (18 months after the first priority date) Rolex has already started using the technology from the patents even though protection is pending.
Lots of Rolex patents end up being used in Tudor watches (maybe to test? This is yet to be confirmed).
With that in mind, let’s look at some of the most recent filings that have been published.
US 9 441 314 B2 features a new hairspring that can be clamped more tightly to a balance staff.
This patent doesn’t feel like a development Rolex would go announcing in a product given that after the Omega Spirate release it was found Rolex already uses a very similar hairspring system in some smaller movements.
WO 2023/135132 relates to a stronger watch case, specifically the crystal and how it joins to the case.
Without deconstructing the case, this feels relevant to the release of the titanium Deepsea Challenge in November last year.
This application was filed in January of last year after all.
Finally, WO 2023/078836 relates to a quick-release system for a watch bracelet.
First filed for at the end of 2021, have we seen this in a Tudor yet?
John Lennon’s Patek 2499
Published just as I was drafting #50, Tony Traina knocks it out of the park again with this investigative piece on John Lennon’s missing 2499.
Admittedly I first came across this missing piece when Tony wrote part 2 of “Ten of the Greatest Missing Watches” back in May.
As hinted at in the May article, a Geneva lawsuit has meant more details than ever on the watch are available in the public domain.
The whirlwind of a tale that follows makes up the bulk of Tony’s article, and it’s well worth a read for its intrigue.
Collector’s Guide: The Rolex GMT-Master Reference 1675 In Steel
Huge news to share with the breaking of this article.
Charlie Dunne has just dropped the single most comprehensive guide to the 1675 and potentially any watch ever.
Dials, hands, crown guards and bracelets are all covered along with relevant ads from Rolex.
Most importantly bezel inserts are covered thoroughly at the end of the article.
In Charlie’s words:
“The model is not simply an iconic Rolex, but it’s one of the most recognized and respected watches of all time.“
You can read the full article here.
How To Wear It The Cartier Tank Cintrée
Apologies for continuously mentioning Hodinkee articles, but this series really caught my eye at How To Wear It The Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight for its uniqueness.
Probably requiring huge production values in addition to amounts of time to plan and execute, Malika Crawford’s series is one of my favourites on Hodinkee at the minute and I hope they keep coming.
What the comments seem to forget is watches are fashion accessories.
We tend nerd out over reference numbers and minute details, but in the present day watches serve next to no purpose for telling the time.
The only purpose they really have is as a fashion accessory and to elevate an outfit.
I can’t wait to see what’s next in the series.
Quick Bits:
It appeared Movado refreshed their Instagram last week with a reel on vintage ads.
The comments section popped off with people asking for them to go back towards vintage Movado.
Movado went back to posting as they did before lol.
Did anyone else see this Roger Smith Series 2 Open Dial for sale at Wristcheck?
Incredibly cool.
Thanks so much for reading this week team.
Hope you all have a great end to your week and a brilliant weekend when we get there.
Owen