3-Watch Thursday #37
Less of a rush than last week
Morning team,
I hope you’re having a good week.
Many many things have caught my eye this week in the world of watches so let’s dive straight in and see where we end up!
Inside The Archives Of Daniel Roth
The chances are you’ve seen this video already and it offers a unique insight into the archieves of Daniel Roth along with how the new company pays homage to the old watches and the man himself.
But one line caught my eye about a patent for the butterfly jump hour for whom Roth is the inventor.
Let’s go have a look for it:
Listed as DE69712932T2 along with a number of other patent numbers in different jurisdictions, the invention relates to a wristwatch with two display mechanisms. In the figures below you can see it is basically a set of springs that cause the quick snap change of the hour in the aperture at the bottom of the dial.
Tell you what though, Roth had a number of really interesting patents in his portfolio and was clearly an innovator as we see many of his patents feature in his watches.
The other thing that caught my attention was the number of patents filed for joint between Genta and Roth. I wasn’t fully aware of the extent of their work together but it definitely opens up routes for further work and study.
I’ll get back to you on that.
In-Depth What’s The Deal With ‘Albino’ Rolex Dials?
Sticking with Hodinkee for a minute, you also might’ve seen this Albino Explorer article that Tony Traina went in depth on.
Firstly, hats off on the article to Tony. A subject that until recently was one of speculation, rumours and doubt. A reference guide now exists for collectors wishing to understand the history and likely origins of said dials along with the references in which they’re found.
The current one listed at Phillips leaves a bit of a sour taste in the mouth though.
Tony touches on how the dial and case period aren’t an impossible combination but likely don’t match, i.e. the dial is probably in a later case.
Given the speculation around Phillips auction lots previously highlighted by Perezcope, this is possibly the truth. Tony is very civil in his article, probably to maintain Hodinkee’s relationship with the auction houses, but there’s a chance this watch isn’t quite right as there’s money to be made.
I wait patiently for a potential Perezcope article dissecting this lot.
Regardless, albino dials aren’t something I previously knew about or would have an opinion to make comment on, so thanks Tony for getting us all up to speed.
IWC Ingenieur SL Reference Guide - The Genta Design (1976-2001)
For those of you interested by the new IWC Ingenieur lets roll back the clock to possibly the best and most iconic variation of the Ingenieur, the SL designed by Genta.
Marcus Siems over at Goldammer has you covered in this article showing each reference along with the case materials and dial variants.
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again…Marcus has been doing God’s work when it comes to reference guides. Take a look at this guide on Patek Philippe sub-second time only watches.
Kudoke K2 ‘Starry Night’
I don’t normally comment on new watches, but this caught my eye for a few reasons.
Firstly, I’ll never be able to afford one.
Secondly, the watchmaker I used to work with loved Kudoke and we often chatted about their work and how we could attempt to make something similar.
Thirdly, just look at it. I never thought I’d see a Kudoke in Grade 5 blued titanium. I just find the watch so interesting with the blue dial, the lume, the case and the day-night indicator.
I once saw Grail Watch described as the Supreme of watches.
While I wouldn’t ever go that far, this is limited and they’ve knocked it out of the park.
I can only dream of ever getting the chance to see one.
This week’s 4 sections makes up a bit for last week’s ‘light’ attempt at a newsletter.
While things have gotten busier as we get closer to my thesis deadline and being done with uni, I felt more engaged with watches this week and enjoyed taking a little longer to write and research this week (I think it’s called peak procrastination).
As a thank you for making it this far, enjoy this little bonus of a MOP dial Ebel that Watch Brothers London posted on Instagram this week:
What an interesting watch! I feel Ebel have been under rated and valued for a long while. I dropped Ben a message saying that him posting about Ebel watches means they’re going to sky-rocket in value🙃.
Get in on them quick before they’re too hot.1
Thank you for reading this week’s edition of 32-Watch Thursday.
Have a lovely weekend and I’ll catch you all again soon.
Owen
This is not financial advice.
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